Just how rare and difficult to obtain HMs are is kind of up for debate in the Pokémon world. Yes, you can't buy them in stores. But you also seem to just be able to obtain them for such trivial reasons that it's like people are trying to get rid of them.
I'm kinda glad HMs have been phased out in more recent games. They were a clever method for gating player progress in the early days, but it also meant you were stuck toting around a Pokémon (or several) who knew the requisite HMs to get you where you needed to go.
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